The Hawthorne Tee is a light, airy and flattering V neck crochet top pattern for summer with endless possibilities to customise it to suit your individual shape.
The innovative sleeve and neckline construction gives you the option to easily adapt them as you make and decide exactly how you’d like to style it.
Crocheted from the top down, the easy crochet tee is great as you can try it on as you make it! This tee is a delight to make and wear (plus it’s my favourite – seamless crochet!).

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You can carry on reading to find the free pattern here in this blogpost or purchase an ad-free, printable PDF version of the Hawthorne Tee pattern in my pattern store to download and print.
About the Hawthorne V Neck Crochet Top
When it comes to crochet garment designing I feel like I have to be honest – nobody has taught me how to do this!
There are now so many fabulous resources and ways to learn about it but I’ve basically figured it out as I’ve gone along and in some ways, I think that has made my designs so much better.
I often get people saying that my garments don’t follow the ‘rules’ of design. You are absolutely right. They don’t.
They are thoroughly tested and technically edited though to make sure they work and my lack of knowledge means that I think I’m more free and creative about construction. Well, that’s my excuse anyway!
So this V neck crochet top might not be made exactly how you might expect it to be.
There are two rectangles made for the sleeves (with the cuffs worked directly into them), then you join them and work in the round for the rest of the top.
Also, there’s a video tutorial of the whole thing too!
Pattern Options
This seamless crochet pattern is a free crochet pattern in both UK and US terms on the blog for everyone to enjoy, just scroll down to find it.
There are a few ways you can access and enjoy this crochet pattern:
Purchase and Print
Get the ad-free, printable PDF with added extras in my pattern stores:

Access for free >>> Scroll down to find the pattern in this blogpost.
Join and save>>> Join HanJan Crochet and receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns too!)
Pin for later >>> Pin the crochet pattern to your crochet Pinterest board.

Other Patterns You Might Enjoy
I love designing garments and especially tops!! Here are a few more of my crochet garment patterns that I thought you might like to try.
Yarn
To make the lace crochet top I used Hawthorne Kettle Dye fingering yarn by WeCrochet.
It’s a beautiful yarn to work with that is 357yds/100g, 80% Fine Superwash Highland Wool, 20% Polyamide (Nylon).
Approx balls/yards: 3/830, (3/920, 3/1040, 4/1150, 4/1260), (5/1380, 5/1500, 6/1630, 6/1740)
A great alternative yarn if you wanted something a bit different is Comfy Fingering Yarn by WeCrochet which is 75% Pima Cotton, 25% acrylic, 218yds/50g for an affordable but lovely yarn.
Using fingering weight yarn for crochet tops is a great idea, especially for summer as it gives you the most amazing drape. Another one you might like to try is my Mystical Tee – a simple crochet top pattern you’ll love.

Tension and Sizing
The top is in sizes XS, (S, M, L, XL), (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL) with the following measurements:
To fit bust: (inches) 30 (34, 38, 42, 46), (50, 54, 58, 62)
Finished garment bust: (inches) 34 (38, 42, 46, 50), (54, 58, 62, 66)
Length (inches): 24 for all sizes but completely customisable.
The tee is really customisable – I suggest choosing the garment bust size that you’d feel most comfortable wearing and then checking ‘customisation’ section below for details of how you can adjust everything else if you’d like to.
It’s a great garment to try on as you make it so that it can be perfect for you.
Sleeve section: 16sts and 7.5 rows of set pattern = 10cm x 10cm
Body section: 16sts and 11 rows of herringbone set part = 10cm by 10cm
Materials
Along with your yarn, you will need the following:
- 4.5mm (US G+) crochet hook – my favourites are Furls Streamline Swirl crochet hooks or Clover Amour crochet hooks.
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers if desired
Glossary and Abbreviations
ch(s) – chain(s)
sp – space
ss – slip stitch
sk – skip
st(s) – stitch(es)
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
rep – repeat
tog – together
blo – back loop only
Crochet Stitches
The seamless crochet top uses the following crochet stitches:
Standard UK Crochet Term | Standard US Crochet Term |
dc – double crochet | sc – single crochet |
htr – half treble | hdc – half double crochet |
tr – treble | dc – double crochet |
Special Stitches
Herringbone stitch – HB – Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over and pull through st (3 loops on the hook) pull 1st loop through the 2nd loop on the hook. Yarn over and pull through 1 loop (2 loops on the hook) Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.
Treble/Double crochet 3 together – UK tr3tog/US dc3tog – *yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops; rep from * 2 more times, yarn over and pull through all the loops on the hook.
Stacked double crochet stitch (UK tr) – Insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. *Insert your hook into the vertical bar below (of the stitch you just made), yarn over and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook; rep from * once more

Pattern Notes
Ch1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch.
Customising your crochet top
How to customise your top to suit you:
WIDTH
I suggest selecting the garment bust size from the chart above that will be most comfortable for you and then adjusting the sleeves, neckline and length from there.
SLEEVES/ARMHOLES
The sleeves are constructed separately in rows and then joined in the round to make the rest of the top. If you would like deeper armholes than your size suggests then just continue to work the set pattern rows in multiples of 2 until they fit your arms comfortably.
NECKLINE
If you’d like your neckline higher then you can just seam up some of the side of the sleeve panel rows when you’ve completed the top.
MIDDLE BAND
This band can be worked for as many or few rounds as you like to sit comfortably over your bust.
LENGTH
If you’d like your top longer/shorter then just work more/less rounds of the main body set pattern in multiples of 2 until it is the length you’d like.
Construction
To begin, make two sleeves that will also form the neckline of the top. The sleeve cuffs are worked directly into the sleeves and will pull in one side of the sleeve intentionally.
As you are making the sleeves, try them on over your shoulder and see how they feel. Add any repeats of the set pattern to make them deeper if you like. (Keep in mind that this will make the neckline deeper too though.)
With your sleeves blocked, lay flat with RS facing ready to join and work in rounds for the main body.
Join your yarn to the first stitch of the first sleeve (not the cuff – you will seam these later) and follow the instructions for the main body of the top now.

Video Tutorial
Watch a full pattern video tutorial >>> watch the video here:
Crochet Garments
If you are like I was not so long ago and absolutely petrified of crocheting garments (even seamless ones like this!) then I have a few articles that might help you to get going with them and get the confidence to try:
Fran Morgan was kind enough to write all about how to start your perfect crochet wardrobe and I put together my top tips for getting started with crochet garments too.
Hawthorne Seamless Crochet Top Pattern
Standard UK and US Terms
Standard UK Crochet Terms
SLEEVES
Sleeve One
Foundation chain: ch 42, (45, 49, 53, 57) (61, 65, 70, 73)
Row 1: RS: stacked tr in 2nd ch from hook( worked in 1st st on row repeats), ch1, skip next 2 sts, 3tr in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, tr in next st, *tr in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, 3tr in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, tr in next st, rep from * to last 6 (9, 6, 10, 7) (11, 8, 6, 9) sts, tr in next 0 (3, 0, 4, 1) (5, 2, 0, 3) sts, htr in blo of last 6 sts [41, (44, 48, 52, 56) (60, 64, 69, 72)].
Row 2: ch1, htr in blo of next 6 sts, tr in next 0 (3, 0, 4, 1) (5, 2, 0, 3) sts, *tr in next st, ch2, skip next ch, tr3tog, ch2, skip next ch, tr in next st, rep from * to end.
Rows 1 and 2 form the set pattern for the sleeves.
Rows 3-26 (28, 30, 32, 34) (36, 38, 40, 42): repeat the set pattern.
Sleeve Two
Foundation chain: ch 42, (45, 49, 53, 57) (61, 65, 70, 73).
Row 1: RS: htr in blo 2nd ch from hook, htr in blo next 5 sts, tr in next 0 (3, 0, 4, 1) (5, 2, 0, 3) sts *tr in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, 3tr in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, tr in next st, rep from * to end [41, (44, 48, 52, 56) (60, 64, 69, 72)].
Row 2: stacked tr in 1st st, ch2, skip next ch, tr3tog, ch2, skip next ch, tr in next st, *tr in next st, ch2, skip next ch, tr3tog, ch2, skip next ch, tr in next st, rep from * to last 6 (9, 6, 10, 7) (11, 8, 6, 9) sts, tr in next 0 (3, 0, 4, 1) (5, 2, 0, 3) sts, htr in blo of last 6 sts.
Rows 1 and 2 form the set pattern for the sleeves.
Rows 3-26 (28, 30, 32, 34) (36, 38, 40, 42): repeat the set pattern.
Once both sleeves are complete, block them to measurements making sure you don’t pull the cuff out too much – you want it to curve in to fit around your arm.
Once blocked, lay flat with RS facing ready to join and work in rounds for the main body.
MAIN BODY
Join your yarn to the first stitch of the first sleeve (not the cuff – you will seam these later).
Round 1: ch1, htr in all the stitches along the sleeve edge: 35, (38, 42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 63, 66), now working into the second sleeve (make sure it is the correct way round), htr in all the stitches along the sleeve edge: 35, (38, 42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 63, 66) to the cuff. Skip the 12 stitches of the cuff and continue to work in the opposite side of the sleeve now. Htr in all the stitches along the sleeve edge: 35, (38, 42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 63, 66), now working into the first sleeve again, htr in all the stitches along the sleeve edge: 35, (38, 42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 63, 66) to the cuff. Skip the 12 stitches of the cuff and you are ready to work in continuous rounds now [140, (152, 168, 184, 200) (216, 232, 252, 264)].
Rounds 2-12: working in continuous rounds, htr in each stitch around [140, (152, 168, 184, 200) (216, 232, 252, 264)].
You can try the top on at this point and continue to work this section for any number of rounds if you would like it longer.
Round 13: stacked tr in 1st st, HBtr in each st around.
Round 14: stacked tr in 1st st, tr in each st around
Rounds 13 and 14 create the main body set pattern.
Rounds 15-54: repeat the main body set pattern (or until your top measures however long you would like it to be).
FINISHING
With WS facing, sew together the cuff seams (6 stitches each).
If you would like to adjust the depth of your neckline then seam together (either sew or slip stitch seam) however many rows of the neckline you would like. These will be the sides of the rows of the sleeve.
Weave in ends and block lightly to measurements to finish.
Standard US Crochet Terms
SLEEVES
Sleeve One
Foundation chain: ch 42, (45, 49, 53, 57) (61, 65, 70, 73)
Row 1: RS: stacked dc in 2nd ch from hook( worked in 1st st on row repeats), ch1, skip next 2 sts, 3dc in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, dc in next st, *dc in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, 3dc in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, dc in next st, rep from * to last 6 (9, 6, 10, 7) (11, 8, 6, 9) sts, dc in next 0 (3, 0, 4, 1) (5, 2, 0, 3) sts, hdc in blo of last 6 sts [41, (44, 48, 52, 56) (60, 64, 69, 72)].
Row 2: ch1, hdc in blo of next 6 sts, dc in next 0 (3, 0, 4, 1) (5, 2, 0, 3) sts, *dc in next st, ch2, skip next ch, dc3tog, ch2, skip next ch, dc in next st, rep from * to end.
Rows 1 and 2 form the set pattern for the sleeves.
Rows 3-26 (28, 30, 32, 34) (36, 38, 40, 42): repeat the set pattern.
Sleeve Two
Foundation chain: ch 42, (45, 49, 53, 57) (61, 65, 70, 73).
Row 1: RS: hdc in blo 2nd ch from hook, hdc in blo next 5 sts, dc in next 0 (3, 0, 4, 1) (5, 2, 0, 3) sts *dc in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, 3dc in next st, ch1, skip next 2 ch, dc in next st, rep from * to end [41, (44, 48, 52, 56) (60, 64, 69, 72)].
Row 2: stacked dc in 1st st, ch2, skip next ch, dc3tog, ch2, skip next ch, dc in next st, *dc in next st, ch2, skip next ch, dc3tog, ch2, skip next ch, dc in next st, rep from * to last 6 (9, 6, 10, 7) (11, 8, 6, 9) sts, dc in next 0 (3, 0, 4, 1) (5, 2, 0, 3) sts, hdc in blo of last 6 sts.
Rows 1 and 2 form the set pattern for the sleeves.
Rows 3-26 (28, 30, 32, 34) (36, 38, 40, 42): repeat the set pattern.
Once both sleeves are complete, block them to measurements making sure you don’t pull the cuff out too much – you want it to curve in to fit around your arm.
Once blocked, lay flat with RS facing ready to join and work in rounds for the main body.
Join your yarn to the first stitch of the first sleeve (not the cuff – you will seam these later).
Round 1: ch1, hdc in all the stitches along the sleeve edge: 35, (38, 42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 63, 66), now working into the second sleeve (make sure it is the correct way round), hdc in all the stitches along the sleeve edge: 35, (38, 42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 63, 66) to the cuff. Skip the 12 stitches of the cuff and continue to work in the opposite side of the sleeve now. Hdc in all the stitches along the sleeve edge: 35, (38, 42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 63, 66), now working into the first sleeve again, hdc in all the stitches along the sleeve edge: 35, (38, 42, 46, 50) (54, 58, 63, 66) to the cuff. Skip the 12 stitches of the cuff and you are ready to work in continuous rounds now [140, (152, 168, 184, 200) (216, 232, 252, 264)].
Rounds 2-12: working in continuous rounds, hdc in each stitch around [140, (152, 168, 184, 200) (216, 232, 252, 264)].
You can try the top on at this point and continue to work this section for any number of rounds if you would like it longer.
Round 13: stacked dc in 1st st, HBdc in each st around.
Round 14: stacked dc in 1st st, dc in each st around
Rounds 13 and 14 create the main body set pattern.
Rounds 15-54: repeat the main body set pattern (or until your top measures however long you would like it to be).
FINISHING
With WS facing, sew together the cuff seams (6 stitches each).
If you would like to adjust the depth of your neckline then seam together (either sew or slip stitch seam) however many rows of the neckline you would like. These will be the sides of the rows of the sleeve.
Weave in ends and block lightly to measurements to finish.

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Brittany Crowell
Sunday 17th of July 2022
If I wanted the sleeves to be more 3/4 length, would I just continue repeating rows 1-2 until the desired length? Or is there a different way to do that?