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Let’s create some show stopping festive decorations with this Mini Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern! There are 5 different mosaic crochet designs to choose from, so you can create lots of different versions.
In this post you’ll find everything you need to make these overlay mosaic mini crochet stockings, including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and free written pattern for blog subscribers.
Christmas Crochet Mini Stocking Pattern Overview
Make these mini crochet stockings to hang on your Christmas tree, or how about using them as cutlery holders as part of your festive table setting? They’d also look amazing strung up as a garland, or made into an advent calendar!
There are really so many different uses for these cute little stockings, so I think we’re going to need to make a whole bunch of them!
⭐⭐⭐ Difficulty level: Intermediate – but it’s so much easier than it looks!
💬 Hook Size: 4mm
📏 Size: Approx 2.25” wide x 6.25”
✨ Crochet Technique: overlay mosaic crochet in the round using single and double crochet stitches
⚖️ Yarn Weight: DK Weight (category 3)
🧶 Yarn Used: Mellowspun DK and Prism DK
🕐 Approx Crochet Time: 1-2 hours depending on your pace
👍 Perfect For: hanging on your Christmas tree, using as a cutlery holder, making into a garland or wreath, using as an advent calendar, gift card holders.
Table of Contents
Things you’ll love about this mini crochet Christmas stocking pattern
You’ve seen my full-size crochet Christmas stocking pattern already, but I couldn’t resist making them in miniature too!
I now have quite a selection of mosaic crochet patterns if you would like more inspiration.
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The stockings also pair beautifully with my crochet Christmas blanket pattern, and you can even use the same yarn to match!
Video Tutorial for the Mini Crochet Stockings
Come along as I crochet a mini stocking and see just how easy it is in our step-by-step video tutorial.
Mini Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern Materials
- A 4mm(G) crochet hook or hook needed to meet gauge
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
Along with the above you will need the following yarn for your mini stocking:
Mellowspun DK, 100% Acrylic, 260m/284yds/100g for the solid colour, and Prism DK, 100% Acrylic, 265m/290yds/100g for the multi-colour yarn.
You will require approximately 60 metres, 65 yards of yarn A. 1 ball of the recommended solid colour yarn.
You will require approximately 42 metres, 45 yards of yarn B. 1 ball of the recommended multi-colour yarn.
For my mini stockings shown in the images, I used Mellowspun in Sand and Prism in Sunset.
You could also use Premier Anti-Pilling Everyday DK which is 100% Acrylic, 250m/273yds/100g for the solid colour, and ColorFusion DK which is 100% Acrylic, 298m/325yds/100g for the multi-colour yarn. I used these for the larger stockings.
Mellowspun DK is an updated and enhanced collection from Mary Maxim perfect for everyday makes! Crafted from 100% premium acrylic with a unique twist in 33 delectable hues that harmonise and elevate one another.
Prism DK is available in more than 10 unique, rippling colour schemes, offering you the best of both worlds in feel and appearance. A soft yarn spun in both bright and subtle beautiful colour schemes, making it perfect for all your creative crochet projects.
These are all category 3, light weight yarns which gives a soft and delicate drape to the stockings. Check our handy yarn weight chart and guide to find out more about yarn weights and categories.
Did you know that overlay mosaic crochet only uses single and double crochet stitches? They are just ever so cleverly placed in the front and back loops to create wonderful designs and patterns.
There are five different mosaic crochet designs to choose from for your mini stocking, so you’ve really been spoilt for choice. You can keep it simple with a stripe design, or go all out with the Mix It Stocking. Or maybe just make them all!
Yarn Substitutes
You can use any yarn that you like bearing in mind that you need to make sure you meet the gauge. Some other great options are:
- Solid Colour Yarn A: Paintbox Simply DK, 100% acrylic, 302yds/100g or Premier Basix DK, 100% acrylic, 306yds/100g
- Multi Colour Yarn B: Lion Brand Mandala Ombre, 100% acrylic, 344yds/150g or King Cole Riot DK, 70% acrylic, 30% wool, 322yds/100g
Sizing
Each stocking is 2.25” wide x 6.25” at longest point. (5.7cm x 15.8cm).
Browse through these easy Christmas crochet patterns for more inspiration!
Fancy another festive project? Give the crochet coffee sleeve pattern a go instead! Made with DK weight yarn, this crochet cup sleeve pattern includes four striking mosaic crochet designs to wow your friends and family.
Glossary and Abbreviations
- beg – beginning
- blo – back loop only
- ch(s) – chain(s) (chain stitch tutorial)
- ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)
- flo – front loop only
- rep – repeat
- RS – right side
- sp – space
- ss/sl st – slip stitch (how to crochet a slip stitch)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- tog – together
- WS – wrong side
- Yoh – yarn over hook
Stitches
The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:
sc – single crochet (how to single crochet stitch)
Mdc – mosaic double crochet (mosaic double crochet tutorial)
Special Stitches
This pattern uses the overlay mosaic crochet technique. Whilst it might look complicated, the only stitches you need to know are the single crochet and the Mosaic double crochet.
In overlay mosaic crochet we are always working our single crochet stitches into the back loop, leaving the front loops free to work a Mosaic double crochet in where necessary.
SINGLE CROCHET (sc) always worked in back loop only (blo).
Insert hook from front to back through back loop of stitch to be worked. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.
MOSAIC DOUBLE CROCHET (Mdc)
A Mosaic double crochet stitch is worked in exactly the same way as a regular US double crochet (UK treble crochet) is. The only difference is where it is worked.
When you need to work a Mosaic double crochet you’ll need to find the front loop of the corresponding stitch 2 rounds below. This is where you will work your stitch.
Top tip – it will be in the same colour of yarn as the one you are currently working in!
Yarn over and insert hook into front loop of stitch two rounds below. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on the hook.
The stitch behind the Mdc on the current round is left unworked.
Are you new to overlay mosaic crochet?
Learn all about the overlay mosaic crochet technique and find out that it’s really not as tricky as it looks in the mosaic crochet tutorial.
Oftentimes mosaic crochet is read from a chart rather than written instructions and this can be super intimidating at first! If it’s the mosaic crochet charts that have you running for the hills, then check out this blogpost all about how to read a mosaic crochet chart.
Once you’ve got the technique mastered, head on over to this collection of overlay mosaic crochet patterns and choose your next project!
FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET (Fsc)
Step 1: Ch 2, insert hook into second ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 2: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the first “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
Step 3: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the first Fsc.
Step 4: Next stitch and subsequent stitches: Insert hook into “chain” created in Step 2, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 5: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the next “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
Step 6: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the next Fsc. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 as required.
Constructing your Mini Crochet Christmas Stocking
The stocking is made from the Toe up, with an afterthought Heel and a Join As You Go Cuff to finish.
The Foot and Leg are made using overlay mosaic crochet in the round.
Customisation
The stocking is easily customisable in length of both the Foot and Leg – just keep repeating rounds of the mosaic repeat until you have the length you’d like.
The Cuff is adjustable – work more or less chains to set the length you’d like.
Pattern Gauge
18.5 sts and 19 rounds of overlay mosaic crochet = 4″ by 4″ using 4mm hook
Making a crochet gauge swatch is particularly important when crocheting projects (and even more so for garments) to ensure that it ends up the desired size.
Before you jump into crocheting your mini Christmas stocking, take a moment to read through the pattern notes—it’s a game-changer!
These handy insights will not only simplify your pattern-reading journey but also ensure a smoother crochet experience. You’ll find helpful tips on deciphering the sizing, customisation and more.
Trust me, a quick peek at these notes will set you up for crochet success!
- The pattern is worked in rounds using the overlay mosaic crochet technique for the Foot and Leg.
- All stitches in the Mosaic Sections are worked as sc in blo or Mdc.
- Each Round uses just one colour.
- A ch1 at the beginning or end of a Round does not count as a stitch.
- The Toe and Heel are worked in continuous Rounds.
- Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
- Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each round. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous round.
- If following charts for the Mosaic Sections then you will need to follow the written pattern for the Toe, Heel and Cuff.
Free Mini Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern
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US Terminology
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ALL STOCKINGS
TOE
Using Yarn A, make a Magic Ring to begin.
Round 1: 8sc into the Magic Ring [8] working in continuous Rounds.
Round 2: 2sc in each st around. [16]
Round 3: sc in each st around. [16]
Round 4: *2sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around. [24]
Round 5: sc in blo of each st around, ss in 1st to join, change to B. [24]
Work in joined rounds now.
Continue for Foot and Leg. Follow the written pattern for the design of your choice or upgrade to the pdf for the Mosaic Charts.
If you love this mosaic crochet pattern as much as I do, then you’re definitely going to love this crochet Christmas blanket pattern too!
IN LANES STOCKING
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Rounds 4-9: Rep Rounds 2-3.
LEG
Round 10: A: Fsc8 (to create heel), skip next 8 sts, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 8 Fsc of Round 10. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 16 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 10 or 9 as necessary.
Round 11: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 12: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Rounds 13-20: Rep Rounds 11-12.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
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BOX IT STOCKING
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: Rep Round 2.
Rounds 5-8: Rep Rounds 1-4.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 1.
LEG
Round 10: A: Fsc8 (to create heel), skip next 8 sts, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 8 Fsc of Round 10. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 16 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 10 or 9 as necessary.
Round 11: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 12: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 13: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 14: A: Rep Round 12.
Rounds 15-18: Rep Rounds 11-14.
Round 19: Rep Round 11.
Round 20: Rep Round 12.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
Fancy another festive stocking project? With two different show stopping versions to make, the Starlight Stocking can be a burst of colour or a traditional nod to adorn your mantle this year. With plenty of room for gifts, this worsted weight crochet stocking pattern works up in no time making it perfect for all the family.
KNOT STOCKING
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: Rep Round 2.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: Rep Round 5.
Round 8: A: Rep Round 2.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 3.
LEG
Round 10: A: Fsc8 (to create heel), skip next 8 sts, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 8 Fsc of Round 10. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 16 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 10 or 9 as necessary.
Round 11: B: ch1, *sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 12: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 13: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 14: A: Rep Round 12.
Round 15: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 16: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 17: B: Rep Round 15.
Round 18: A: Rep Round 12.
Round 19: B: Rep Round 13.
Round 20: A: Rep Round 12.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
LABYRINTH STOCKING
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 8: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 7.
LEG
Round 10: A: Fsc8 (to create heel), skip next 8 sts, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 8 Fsc of Round 10. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 16 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 10 or 9 as necessary.
Round 11: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 12: A: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 13: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 14: A: ch1, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 15: B: Rep Round 13.
Round 16: A: Rep Round 12.
Round 17: B: Rep Round 11.
Round 18: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 19: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 20: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in 1st st to join.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
MIX IT STOCKING
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 5: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 8: A: Rep Round 6.
Round 9: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
LEG
Round 10: A: Fsc8 (to create heel), skip next 8 sts, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 8 Fsc of Round 10. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 16 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 10 or 9 as necessary.
Round 11: B: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 12: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 13: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 14: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 15: B: Rep Round 13.
Round 16: A: Rep Round 14.
Round 17: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 18: A: Rep Round 14.
Rounds 19-20: Rep Rounds 17-18.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
CUFF
Continuing from last Round of Leg, the Cuff is worked in Join As You Go turned Rows. Rotate the work 90 degrees to work in Rows around the last Round of the Leg.
Ch13 (or desired length of cuff remembering that this will be folded over in half).
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each along [12], ss in next st of last Round of Leg, turn.
Row 2: sc in blo of each st, turn. [12]
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of last Round of Leg, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around.
Join first and last Row together with a slip stitch seam to complete.
Weave in ends and fold over Cuff into place.
HEEL
With RS facing, join yarn to any corner stitch of heel opening. Work in continuous Rounds for the heel from Round 2 onwards.
Round 1: *sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts; rep from * around. [14]
Round 2: *sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * around. [12]
Round 3: sc2tog around. [6]
Break yarn and seam last Round together by sewing through all 6 stitches and pulling together to join heel.
Weave in all ends and block lightly to measurements.
HANGING TIE FOR TREE
You can add any kind of hanging tie to the inside of your cuff that you like. I used simple twine for mine but a ribbon would be beautiful too.
You can either hang them on a tree or create a garland for your mantle or door with them.
PLACE SETTING
Why not use these as cutlery holders at your table for a festive feast? Pop them on top of your napkin with the cutlery in them and your guests will have a special gift to keep.
ADVENT CALENDAR
How about making a whole bunch of them to create the most stunning advent calendar?!
The possibilities are endless with these cute little stockings and I can’t wait to see what you do!
Congratulations on crocheting your very own crochet Christmas stocking ornament! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this fun project, why stop here? Dive into my other Christmas crochet patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.
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10 Creative Ways to Use Mini Crochet Christmas Stockings
Mini crochet Christmas stockings are surprisingly versatile! While they’re perfect for hanging on your Christmas tree, there are so many other fun ways to use them throughout the festive season.
- Christmas Tree Decorations
Hang them on your tree with ribbon or twine for a handmade festive look. - Gift Card Holders
Tuck a gift card, folded money or a handwritten note inside for a thoughtful way to give small presents. - Handmade Gift Toppers
Tie a mini stocking onto wrapped gifts instead of a traditional gift tag. It becomes part of the present and can be reused year after year. - Advent Calendar Pockets
Make a collection of stockings and fill each one with a small treat or message to create a reusable crochet advent calendar. - Festive Garland
String several stockings together with twine to make a cheerful Christmas garland for a mantelpiece, staircase or doorway. - Table Place Settings
Add each guest’s name and place one beside every plate. Fill them with chocolates or sweets for an extra festive touch. - Stocking Fillers
Fill them with tiny treats, lip balm, jewellery or other small gifts to create a stocking within a stocking! - Teacher or Neighbour Gifts
Pop in a chocolate, tea bag or small handmade gift for an inexpensive but thoughtful Christmas present. - Christmas Countdown Display
Hang numbered stockings on a branch, ladder or wall display to create a simple festive countdown. - Keepsake Decorations
Crochet one each year using different colours or add the year with embroidery to create a collection of handmade Christmas memories.
My favourite way to use these mini stockings is as cutlery holders. They instantly elevate the Christmas table and are such a lovely way to present them.
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If you’ve enjoyed making this mini crochet Christmas stocking pattern, then why not try a few more? Here’s a few other of my designs you might like:
- Easy mosaic crochet bauble – continue your love of mosaic crochet with this cute bauble
- Easy crochet stocking pattern – using the granny stitch.
- Christmas crochet gnome pattern – an adorable decoration to make
