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Make the most gorgeous, fun Christmas sweaters for all the family this year with this Snowman crochet sweater pattern. In sizes from baby all the way up to 5XL, you can create the most amazing holiday photos with matchy-matchy sweaters! With cute snowmen motifs in overlay mosaic crochet, I’m sure you will love every moment of creating these sweaters as much as I did!
You’ll find everything you need to know how to make this Christmas crochet sweater for kids and adults, including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and a free written pattern for blog subscribers for the 0-6 months size. Let’s go!
Christmas Crochet Sweater Pattern Overview
A little dusting of snow and a whole lot of festive charm! The Starlit Snowmen Sweater features adorable snowmen in their finest top hats, with a deceptively simple construction that’s easy to adapt for your perfect fit.
The 0-6 month size is free to read on the blogpost below, you can find all of the other sizes as premium pdfs.
⭐⭐⭐ Difficulty level: Intermediate – using basic stitches and the overlay mosaic crochet technique
💬 Hook Size: 3.5mm and 4.5mm
📏 Sizes: 0-6 months to 10 years, and XS to 5XL
✨ Crochet Technique: overlay mosaic crochet
⚖️ Yarn Weight: 100% acrylic DK weight (category 3)
🧶 Yarn Used: Timeless Tones DK
🕐 Approx Crochet Time: 10-20 hours depending on your pace
👍 Perfect For: creating matching Christmas sweaters for the whole family
Table of Contents
One of my favourite things about Christmas is making something special for the people I love, and there’s just something so lovely about a handmade Christmas jumper that can be brought out year after year!
Things you’ll love about this Christmas crochet pullover pattern
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Snowmen Crochet Sweater Pattern Materials
- A 3.5mm(E) and 4.5mm(G+) crochet hook or hook needed to meet gauge
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
Along with the above you will need the following yarn for your sweater:
Timeless Tones DK, 100% Acrylic, 250m/273yds/100g
For the kids version:
You will need approx. 340 (440, 495, 540, 630, 810, 935) m, 368 (480, 540, 595, 688, 888, 1025) yds of yarn A. 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls of the recommended yarn A.
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You will need approx. 84 (110, 125, 135, 160, 202, 235) m, 92 (120, 135, 148, 172, 222, 256) yds of yarn B. 1 (1, 1, 1, 1 ,1, 1) balls of the recommended yarn B.
You will need approx. 84 (110, 125, 135, 160, 202, 235) m, 92 (120, 135, 148, 172, 222, 256) yds of yarn C. 1 (1, 1, 1, 1 ,1, 1) balls of the recommended yarn C.
For the adult version:
You will need approx. 340 (440, 495, 540, 630, 810, 935) m, 368 (480, 540, 595, 688, 888, 1025) yds of yarn A. 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls of the recommended yarn A.
You will need approx. 84 (110, 125, 135, 160, 202, 235) m, 92 (120, 135, 148, 172, 222, 256) yds of yarn B. 1 (1, 1, 1, 1 ,1, 1) balls of the recommended yarn B.
You will need approx. 84 (110, 125, 135, 160, 202, 235) m, 92 (120, 135, 148, 172, 222, 256) yds of yarn C. 1 (1, 1, 1, 1 ,1, 1) balls of the recommended yarn C.
This sweater is designed with a round neck yoke and a huge variety of options to customise that will affect the amount of yarn you need.
There are numerous options for adding length to the sweater body, cuff and sleeves to make it perfect for you but make sure to order plenty of yarn if you are making adjustments to the pattern.
The following yarn amounts are estimated as a total as the pattern is written, with a neck rib band and worked to the length of body with a bottom band and long sleeves with cuffs as in the pattern.
There are also matching accessory patterns that take a couple of balls each so order plenty for those too!
Check out our handy yarn weight chart and guide to find out more about yarn weights and categories.
See my other light DK yarn crochet patterns – you might find your next project there too!
Yarn Substitutes
You can use any yarn that you like bearing in mind that you need to make sure you meet the gauge. Some other great options are:
- Mellowspun DK, 100% Acrylic, 260m/284yds/100g
- Brava Baby DK, 100% Acrylic, 250m/273yds/100g
- Premier Anti-Pilling Everyday DK, 100% Acrylic, 250m/273yds/100g
The crochet colour work means that I would class this as an intermediate crochet pattern but don’t let that put you off if you’d like to give it a go – it’s a great first mosaic project to try your hand at! Maybe give the videos a watch and see what I mean:
Video Tutorial for the Child Crochet Christmas Sweater
Come along as I make this baby crochet sweater pattern and see just how easy it is in our supporting video tutorial.
Video Tutorial for the Adult Crochet Christmas Sweater
Come along as I make this adult crochet sweater pattern with short back row shaping (easier than it sounds I promise!) and see just how easy it is in our supporting video tutorial.
Sizing
Children: 0-6m (6-12m, 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10)
Garment circumference: 18 (19.5, 23, 25, 26, 29.5, 31) in
Length: 6.5 (6.5, 7, 7.25, 7.5, 9.25, 10.5) in
Sleeve length: 6.25 (7, 8.25, 9.75, 11.5, 12.5, 14) in
Armhole and sleeve depth: 6.5 (7, 7.5, 8, 8.5, 9, 10.5) in
Yoke depth: 4.25 (5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7.5) in
Adults: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Garment circumference: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48) (52, 56, 60, 64) in
Length: 13 (13, 14, 14, 15) (15, 16, 16, 17) in
Sleeve length: 15 (15.5, 15.5, 16, 16) (16.5, 16.5, 17, 17) in
Armhole and sleeve depth: 11 (11.5, 13, 14, 14.5) (16, 18, 19.5, 20) in
Yoke depth: 7.5 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5) (10, 10.5, 11, 11.5) in
Find more mosaic crochet sweater patterns here!
Glossary and Abbreviations
- beg – beginning
- blo – back loop only
- ch(s) – chain(s) (chain stitch tutorial)
- ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)
- rep – repeat
- RS – right side
- sp – space
- ss/sl st – slip stitch (how to crochet a slip stitch)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- tog – together
- WS – wrong side
- Yoh – yarn over hook
Learn About The Mosaic Crochet Technique
If you’re new to overlay mosaic crochet, here are some useful resources to help you get to grips with the technique before you start, plus don’t forget there are video tutorials throughout the pattern to support you as you make.
Mosaic Crochet Tutorial – what’s the difference between inset and overlay?
Mosaic Double Crochet Stitch – learn how to place a regular double crochet in mosaic
How To Read A Mosaic Chart – it’s much easier than you might think!
Mosaic Crochet Stitches – I have a step by step guide for how to work all the shaping stitches we use in this pattern and more!
Stitches
The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:
sc – single crochet (how to single crochet stitch)
Mdc – Mosaic double crochet (how to work a mosaic double crochet)
Mosaic Crochet Stitches
You will need to know all the principles of working overlay mosaic crochet but don’t worry! It uses only beginner stitches and I have a step by step guide all about mosaic crochet stitches for you to follow along with.
Looking for more cute crochet patterns for little ones? Here are some to try:
- Easy Crochet Sweater Pattern – looks a bit like knitting!
- Easiest Sweater to Crochet – beginner stitches and simple construction
- Raglan Crochet Sweater Pattern – full of texture and seamless too!
FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET (Fsc)
- Step 1: Ch 2, insert hook into second ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
- Step 2: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the first “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
- Step 3: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the first Fsc.
- Step 4: Next stitch and subsequent stitches: Insert hook into “chain” created in Step 2 (step 5 on subsequent stitches), yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
- Step 5: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the next “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
- Step 6: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the next Fsc.
- Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 as required.
If you like this pattern, you might also like the starlight crochet hat, which uses the same overlay mosaic crochet technique.
How do you Make this Crochet Sweater Pattern?
- The sweater is made from the top down creating the Yoke to begin with.
- The Yoke is worked in rounds using the Overlay Mosaic Crochet technique.
- Once complete, we add short row shaping for the Back before splitting for the sleeves.
- We then work the Body in continuous rounds before adding the Bottom Rib if desired.
- The Sleeves and Sleeve Cuffs (if desired are then added).
- The Neck Rib (if desired) is then added to finish.
Pattern Gauge
Gauge: 20 sts and 18 rounds = 4″ by 4″ using 4.5mm hook
A gauge swatch will help you find out if your yarn and hook size will give you the tension for the sweater and make it the size of the schematic.
You can find out more about making a crochet gauge swatch here.
Before you jump into crocheting your kids and adults crochet sweaters, take a moment to read through the pattern notes—it’s a game-changer!
These handy insights will not only simplify your pattern-reading journey but also ensure a smoother crochet experience. You’ll find helpful tips on deciphering the sizing, customisation and more.
Trust me, a quick peek at these notes will set you up for crochet success!
- The pattern is worked firstly in joined rounds for the Yoke.
- Make sure to use stitch markers at the beginning of each round so as not to lose your place.
- All stitches are worked as sc in blo or Mdc.
- Each Round uses just one colour.
- A ch1 at the beginning of a row or round does not count as a stitch.
- The Body and Sleeves are worked in continuous rounds.
- Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
- Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).
- Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each row or round. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous row.
- The count number referring to each size is laid out as follows in the adult pattern: XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL).
- In the children’s pattern the stitch counts are laid out as: 0-6 months (6-12 months, 1-2 years, 3-4 years, 5-6 years, 7-8 years, 9-10 years) unless otherwise indicated.
Making your Christmas Crochet Sweater Perfect for You
Once you have chosen the correct chest size you’d like to make, the rest of the design is easy to adjust to fit as you would like it to.
The Sweater is designed to have a small amount of ease all over with straight sleeves. The garment is worked from the top down so it is simple to change the length of both the Body and the Sleeves as you’d like.
BODY FIT
Proportion of Back and Front Stitches – Child Sizes
The pattern is written to have the Front and Back measure the same. If you would like to have more space in the Front then you can do the following:
Work less stitches for the Back and more for the Front as desired. Every 10 sts will adjust by 2 inches. The great thing about the top down construction means you can try this on and adjust to suit you perfectly.
This isn’t usually needed in child size but you can if you would like to.
Proportion of Back and Front Stitches – Adult Sizes
The adult pattern is written to have the Front measure 2 inches bigger than the Back for a better fit over the bust.
If you would like more room at the Front then you can work less stitches for the Back and more for the Front as desired. Every 10 sts will adjust by 2 inches. The great thing about the top down construction means you can try this on and adjust to suit you perfectly.
Sleeve Armhole Depth (adult sizes only): You can adjust the armhole by working more or less Back Short rows. Each row will add another stitch to the armhole and you can continue to adjust until you have the perfect fit.
Before adjusting the armhole I would recommend blocking the Yoke to see how that changes the overall fit.
LENGTH
Main Body Length: To adjust the length, you can work more or less rounds of the Body as you like before adding the Bottom Rib. If you don’t want a Bottom rib then work the Body to the final length you desire and fasten off.
Bottom Rib: you can adjust the Bottom Rib length by working more or less stitches in the Join as You Go Method.
Sleeve Length: You can adjust the Sleeves by working as many or as few rounds of the Sleeves before adding the Sleeve Cuff if desired. If you don’t want a Sleeve Cuff then work the Sleeves to the final length you desire and fasten off.
Make sure to work a matching number of rounds for each sleeve.
Christmas Crochet Sweater Free Pattern
There are a few options for you to access and enjoy this crochet pattern:
- View the free pattern on the blog – baby size only – all blog subscribers will be able to view the patterns supported by ads by logging into their Grow account.
- Purchase the individual pattern on Etsy or Ravelry as a beautifully formatted PDF with extra stitch charts, schematic and colour information page and more!
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Round 17: B: ch1, *sk next st, 2Mdc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, 2Mdc in next st, sk next st, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st to join and change to A.
Round 18: A: increase round: ch1, *sc in next 7 sts, Mdc in next 3 sts, 2Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st to join and change to B. [156]
Round 19: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc2tog in previous and next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, Mdc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st to join and change to A.
Round 20: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, Mdc in next 6 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st to join and continue in A.
Continue to Split for Sleeves.
SPLIT FOR SLEEVES
All Sizes
Continue to work all sc in blo. Break Yarn B.
Round 1: A: ch1, *sc in the next 45 (49, 58, 62, 65, 74, 78) sts, skip the next 33 (35, 38, 40, 43, 46, 52) sts; rep from * once more, ss in 1st st to join.
Try the sweater on at this point if you are able to or check the measurements. If you need a little more room then block the Yoke at this point to make sure you are happy with it. The neckline will still be generous here until we have added the ribbing.
MAIN BODY
All Sizes
Continue to work all sc in blo.
Working in continuous rounds now. Ch1 at the beginning of Round 2 only.
Rounds 2-27 (27, 29, 28, 29, 35, 41): A: working in continuous rounds now, sc in each st around.
You can work as many or as few rounds for the length here.
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BOTTOM RIB
All Sizes
Once you have completed the Body, you can add an optional Join As You Go Bottom Rib.
You can adjust the length of the Bottom Rib by working as many or as few chains to start as desired.
Continue in Yarn A and change to 3.5mm hook (or hook 1mm smaller than the one you met the gauge with).
Row 1: ch 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 9, 9), sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each along, ss into next st of the Last Round, turn. [3 (3, 3, 5, 5, 8, 8)]
Row 2: sc in blo of each st, turn.
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of the Last Round, turn.
Rep Rows 2 and 3 along the Last Round of the sweater. Once complete, join the First Row to the Last Row of the Bottom Rib with a slip stitch seam. Fasten off and weave in ends.
SLEEVES
All Sizes
With RS facing, and using the larger hook, join A to the underarm st on the Sleeve opening.
Work the Sleeve in continuous rounds with all sc in the blo.
Round 1: A: ch1, sc in each st around. [33 (35, 38, 40, 43, 46, 52)]
Rounds 2- 26 (29, 35, 39, 47, 50, 56): sc in each st around. You can work as many or as few rounds for the length here.
SLEEVE CUFFS
All Sizes
Once you have completed the Body, you can add optional Sleeve Cuffs in exactly the same Join As You Go Method as the Bottom Rib.
Make sure to change to the smaller hook and adjust to the length you would like.
If you would like a much tighter cuff then you can work Row 3 as follows instead:
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next st of the First Round, skip the next st, ss in next st of the First Round, turn.
NECK BAND
All Sizes
If you would like to add a ribbed Neck Band then this can also be done in the same way as the Bottom Rib and Sleeve Cuff.
Using A, with the RS facing, join to the first stitch of Round 1 of the Yoke (this will be at the back of the shoulder).
Using the smaller hook :
Row 1: ch 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6), sc in 2nd ch from the hook and in each along, ss into next st of the First Round, turn. [3 (3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5)]
Row 2: sc in blo of each st, turn.
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of the First Round, turn.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 5: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next st of the First Round, skip the next st, ss in next st of the First Round, turn.
Rep Rows 2-5 along the Last Round of the sweater.
This will give you a snug Neck Band as pictured.
If you would prefer it to be looser then just repeat Rows 2-3 around instead.
Once complete, join the First Row to the Last Row of the Neck Band with a slip stitch seam.
Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Block to measurements to complete.
Congratulations on crocheting your very own crochet Christmas sweater for babies! 🌟 Now that you’ve completed this fun project, why stop here? Explore my other mosaic crochet patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.
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Ready for your next crochet pattern for children and babies? Look no further! This granny stitch crochet cardigan is a classic crochet design with a twist.
