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Let’s have some festive fun with this stunning Mosaic Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern! With 5 different mosaic crochet designs to choose from, you can create unique stockings for everyone. Hanging stockings on the fireplace is such a wonderful tradition. What better way to make these moments even more special than by crocheting your own stockings to cherish year after year?
In this post you’ll find everything you need to know how to make these overlay mosaic crochet stockings, including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and free written pattern for blog subscribers.
Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern Overview
One of my favourite things about handmade stockings is that they become part of your family’s Christmas traditions. Every year when you unpack them, you remember making them and all the festive memories that came with it.
There are five different mosaic crochet designs to choose from for your stocking, so you’ve really been spoilt for choice. You can keep it simple with a stripe design, or go all out with the Mix It Stocking. Or maybe just make them all!
Plus, I also have a matching mini crochet Christmas stocking pattern too!
⭐⭐⭐ Difficulty level: Intermediate but easy once you get the hang of the technique
💬 Hook Size: 4mm
📏 Sizes: 6” wide x 19” at longest point.
✨ Crochet Technique: single and double crochet in overlay mosaic crochet
⚖️ Yarn Weight: DK Weight (category 3)
🧶 Yarn Used: Premier Anti-Pilling Everyday & Colorfusion DK
🕐 Approx Crochet Time: 7-12 hours depending on your pace
👍 Perfect For: gifting to family and friends, creating heirloom-worthy mantle decor.
Table of Contents
The stockings pair beautifully with my crochet Christmas blanket pattern, and you can even choose the same yarn to match!
Things you’ll love about this crochet Christmas stocking pattern
Video Tutorial for the Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern
Come along as I crochet a stocking and see just how easy it is in our step-by-step video tutorial.
Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern Materials
- A 4mm(G) crochet hook or hook needed to meet gauge
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers
Along with the above you will need the following yarn for your stocking:
Premier Anti-Pilling Everyday DK from Mary Maxim, which is 100% Acrylic, 250m/273yds/100g for the solid colour, and Premier Colorfusion DK from Mary Maxim, 100% Acrylic, 298m/325yds/100g for the multi-colour yarn.
You will require approximately 210 metres, 230 yards of yarn A. 1 ball of the recommended solid colour yarn.
You will require approximately 140 metres, 155 yards of yarn B. 1 ball of the recommended multi-colour yarn.
I also made some of my stocking using Mellowspun DK, which is 100% Acrylic, 260m/284yds/100g for the solid colour, and Prism DK, which is 100% Acrylic, 265m/290yds/100g for the multi-colour yarn.
Premier Anti-Pilling Everyday DK is a 100% acrylic fiber that is specially formulated to reduce the formation of pills over time. As it is made with fibers that resist pilling, it will last longer, look newer, and feel softer. This yarn is ideal for apparel and home décor projects like afghans, baby clothing, sweaters, and baby blankets.
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ColorFusion DK is perfect for soft, easy care knit and crochet projects. Featuring the same gorgeous range of self-striping hues from Colorfusion Chunky, it is perfect for creating colorful pieces with ease.
Mellowspun DK is an updated and enhanced collection from Mary Maxim perfect for everyday makes! Crafted from 100% premium acrylic with a unique twist in 33 delectable hues that harmonise and elevate one another.
Prism DK is available in more than 10 unique, rippling colour schemes, offering you the best of both worlds in feel and appearance. A soft yarn spun in both bright and subtle beautiful colour schemes, making it perfect for all your creative crochet projects.
These are all category 3, light weight yarns which gives a soft and delicate drape to the stockings. Check our handy yarn weight chart and guide to find out more about yarn weights and categories.
Yarn Substitutes
You can use any yarn that you like bearing in mind that you need to make sure you meet the gauge. Some other great options are:
- Solid Colour Yarn A: Paintbox Simply DK, 100% acrylic, 302yds/100g or Premier Basix DK, 100% acrylic, 306yds/100g
- Multi Colour Yarn B: Lion Brand Mandala Ombre, 100% acrylic, 344yds/150g or King Cole Riot DK, 70% acrylic, 30% wool, 322yds/100g
Fancy another festive project? Give the crochet coffee sleeve pattern a go as well! Made with DK weight yarn, this crochet cup sleeve pattern includes four striking mosaic crochet designs to wow your friends and family.
Sizing
Each stocking is 6” wide x 19” at longest point. (40.5cm x 48cm).
Glossary and Abbreviations
- beg – beginning
- blo – back loop only
- ch(s) – chain(s) (chain stitch tutorial)
- ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)
- flo – front loop only
- rep – repeat
- RS – right side
- sp – space
- ss/sl st – slip stitch (how to crochet a slip stitch)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- tog – together
- WS – wrong side
- Yoh – yarn over hook
Stitches
The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:
sc – single crochet (how to single crochet stitch)
Mdc – Mosaic double crochet (how to Mosaic double crochet)
Special Stitches
This pattern uses the overlay mosaic crochet technique. Whilst it might look complicated, the only stitches you need to know are the single crochet and the Mosaic double crochet.
In overlay mosaic crochet we are always working our single crochet stitches into the back loop, leaving the front loops free to work a Mosaic double crochet in where necessary.
I now have quite a selection of mosaic crochet patterns in you would like more inspiration.
Are you new to overlay mosaic crochet?
Learn all about the overlay mosaic crochet technique and find out that it’s really not as tricky as it looks in the mosaic crochet tutorial.
Oftentimes mosaic crochet is read from a chart rather than written instructions and this can be super intimidating at first! If it’s the mosaic crochet charts that have you running for the hills, then check out this blogpost all about how to read a mosaic crochet chart.
Once you’ve got the technique mastered, head on over to this collection of overlay mosaic crochet patterns and choose your next project!
SINGLE CROCHET (sc) always worked in back loop only (blo).
Insert hook from front to back through back loop of stitch to be worked. Yarn over and pull through stitch. Yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook.
MOSAIC DOUBLE CROCHET (Mdc)
A Mosaic double crochet stitch is worked in exactly the same way as a regular US double crochet (UK treble crochet) is. The only difference is where it is worked.
When you need to work a Mosaic double crochet you’ll need to find the front loop of the corresponding stitch 2 rounds below. This is where you will work your stitch.
Top tip – it will be in the same colour of yarn as the one you are currently working in!
Yarn over and insert hook into front loop of stitch two rounds below. Yarn over and pull through the stitch. Yarn over and pull through two loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through remaining two loops on the hook.
The stitch behind the Mdc on the current round is left unworked.
FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET (Fsc)
Step 1: Ch 2, insert hook into second ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 2: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the first “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
Step 3: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the first Fsc.
Step 4: Next stitch and subsequent stitches: Insert hook into “chain” created in Step 2, yarn over and pull up a loop. [2 loops on hook]
Step 5: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the next “chain” in your foundation row. [still 2 loops on hook]
Step 6: Yarn over and pull through both loops to complete the next Fsc. Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 as required.
Constructing your Crochet Christmas Stocking
The stocking is made from the Toe up, with an afterthought Heel and a Join As You Go Cuff to finish.
The Foot and Leg are made using overlay mosaic crochet in the round.
Customisation
The stocking is easily customisable in length of both the Foot and Leg – just keep repeating rounds of the mosaic repeat until you have the length you’d like.
The Cuff is adjustable – work more or less chains to set the length you’d like.
Pattern Gauge
18.5 sts and 19 rounds of overlay mosaic crochet = 4″ by 4″ using 4mm hook
Making a crochet gauge swatch is particularly important when crocheting projects (and even more so for garments) to ensure that it ends up the desired size.
Before you jump into crocheting your Christmas stocking, take a moment to read through the pattern notes—it’s a game-changer!
These handy insights will not only simplify your pattern-reading journey but also ensure a smoother crochet experience. You’ll find helpful tips on deciphering the sizing, customisation and more.
Trust me, a quick peek at these notes will set you up for crochet success!
- The pattern is worked in rounds using the overlay mosaic crochet technique for the Foot and Leg.
- All stitches in the Mosaic Sections are worked as sc in blo or Mdc.
- Each Round uses just one colour.
- A ch1 at the beginning or end of a Round does not count as a stitch.
- The Toe and Heel are worked in continuous Rounds.
- Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
- Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
- Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each round. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous round.
Free Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern
There are a few options for you to access and enjoy this crochet pattern:
- View the free pattern on the blog – all blog subscribers will be able to view the written pattern supported by ads by logging into their Grow account.
- Purchase the individual pattern on Etsy or Ravelry as a beautifully formatted PDF with extra stitch charts, schematic and colour information page and more!
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Get the PDF Pattern
Perfect to print out or use on any device, with added schematic and charts, colour inspiration and stitch tutorials.
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ALL STOCKINGS
TOE
Using Yarn A, make a Magic Ring to begin.
Round 1: 8sc into the Magic Ring [8] working in continuous Rounds.
Round 2: 2sc in each st around. [16]
Round 3: sc in each st around. [16]
Round 4: *2sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around. [24]
Round 5: sc in each st around. [24]
Round 6: *2sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around. [32]
Round 7: sc in each st around. [32]
Round 8: *2sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around. [40]
Round 9: sc in each st around. [40]
Round 10: *2sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * around. [48]
Round 11: sc in each st around.[48]
Round 12: *2sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * around. [56]
Round 13: sc in blo of each st around, ss in 1st to join, change to B. [56]
Continue for Foot and Leg. Follow the written pattern for the design of your choice or upgrade to the pdf for the Mosaic Charts.
If you love this mosaic crochet pattern as much as I do, then you’re definitely going to love this crochet Christmas blanket pattern too!
IN LANES STOCKING
For this version I used: Premier Everyday Linen, Prism DK Sunset
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Rounds 4-25: Rep Rounds 2-3
LEG
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Rounds 29-66: Rep Rounds 27-28.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
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BOX IT STOCKING
For this version I used: Mellowspun Buff, Prism DK Tropics
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: Rep Round 2.
Rounds 5-24: Rep Rounds 1-4.
Round 25: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 29: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 30: A: Rep Round 28.
Rounds 31-66: Rep Rounds 27-30.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
KNOT STOCKING
For this version I used: Prism Autumn Mist, Mellowspun Sand
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: Rep Round 2.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: Rep Round 5.
Round 8: A: Rep Round 2.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 3.
Round 10: A: Rep Round 2.
Rounds 11-20: Rep Rounds 1-10.
Rounds 21-25: Rep Rounds 1-5.
LEG
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 29: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 30: A: Rep Round 28.
Round 31: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 32: A: Rep Round 28.
Round 33: B: Rep Round 29.
Round 34: A: Rep Round 28.
Round 35: B: Rep Round 27.
Round 36: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Rounds 37-66: Rep Rounds 27-36.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
LABYRINTH STOCKING
For this version I used: Mellowspun Buff, ColorFusion Vintage
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 4: A: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 8: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 9: B: Rep Round 7.
Round 10: A: Rep Round 6.
Round 11: B: Rep Round 5.
Round 12: A: Rep Round 4.
Round 13: B: Rep Round 3.
Round 14: A: Rep Round 2.
Rounds 15-25: Rep Rounds 3-13.
Fancy another overlay mosaic crochet pattern? This crochet stocking pattern uses worsted weight yarn to work up in no time making it perfect for all the family.
LEG
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 29: B: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 30: A: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 31: B: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 32: A: ch1, *Mdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 33: B: Rep Round 31.
Round 34: A: Rep Round 30.
Round 35: B: Rep Round 29.
Round 36: A: Rep Round 28.
Round 37: B: Rep Round 27.
Round 38: A: ch1, *sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next 5 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Rounds 39-62: Rep Rounds 27-38 two more times.
Rounds 63-66: Rep Rounds 27-30.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
MIX IT STOCKING
For this version I used: Colorfusion Woodland, Mellowspun Sand
FOOT
Round 1: B: ch1, sc in each st around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 2: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 3: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 4: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 5: B: ch1, *sc in next 4 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 6: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 7: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 8: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 9: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st, Mdc in next st, sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 10: A: Rep Round 8.
Round 11: B: Rep Round 7.
Round 12: A: Rep Round 6.
Round 13: B: Rep Round 5.
Round 14: A: Rep Round 4.
Round 15: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 16: A: ch1, *sc in next st, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 17: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 18: A: Rep Round 16.
Round 19: B: Rep Round 17.
Round 20: A: Rep Round 16.
Round 21: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 22: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 23: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 24: A: Rep Round 22.
Round 25: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 26: A: Fsc24 (to create heel), skip next 24 sts, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
The next round works firstly into the 24 Fsc of Round 26. Work all sc into the blo of the Fsc. If required to work a Mdc into a Fsc, it is placed into the chain at the base of the stitch.
The remaining 32 sts are worked as usual into the stitches of either Round 26 or 25 as necessary.
Round 27: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 28: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 29: B: Rep Round 1.
Round 30: A: Rep Round 22.
Rounds 31-33: Rep Rounds 27-29.
Rounds 34-38: Rep Rounds 16-20.
Rounds 39-63: Rep Rounds 1-25.
Round 64: A: ch1, *sc in next 3 sts, Mdc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to B.
Round 65: B: ch1, *Mdc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ss in blo of 1st st and change to A.
Round 66: A: Rep Round 64.
Once your Foot and Leg are complete, move on to the Cuff section.
CUFF
Continuing from last Round of Leg, the Cuff is worked in Join As You Go turned rows. Rotate the work 90 degrees to work in Rows around the last Round of the Leg.
Ch25 (or desired length of cuff remembering that this will be folded over in half).
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each along [24], ss in next st of last Round of Leg, turn.
Row 2: sc in blo of each st, turn. [24]
Row 3: ch1, sc in blo of each st, ss in next 2 sts of last Round of Leg, turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around.
Join first and last Row together with a slip stitch seam to complete.
Weave in ends and fold over Cuff into place.
Fancy another festive stocking project? With two different show stopping versions to make, the Starlight Stocking can be a burst of colour or a traditional nod to adorn your mantle this year. With plenty of room for gifts, this worsted weight crochet stocking pattern works up in no time making it perfect for all the family.
HEEL
With RS facing, join yarn to any corner stitch of heel opening. Work in continuous Rounds for the heel from Round 2 onwards.
Round 1: *sc2tog, sc in next 14 sts; rep from * twice more. [45]
Round 2: *sc2tog, sc in next 9 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 10 sts. [41]
Round 3: *sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 9 sts. [37]
Round 4: *sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 8 sts. [33]
Round 5: *sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 7 sts. [29]
Round 6: *sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 6 sts. [25]
Round 7: *sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 5 sts. [21]
Round 8: *sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 4 sts. [17]
Round 9: *sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * twice more, sc2tog, sc in the last 3 sts. [13]
Break yarn and seam last Round together by sewing through all 13 stitches and pulling together to join heel.
Weave in all ends and block lightly to measurements.
HANGING TIE
You can add any kind of hanging tie to the inside of your cuff that you like. I used simple ribbon for mine.
Congratulations on crocheting your very own overlay mosaic crochet Christmas stocking! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this fun project, why stop here? Dive into my other Christmas crochet patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.
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FAQs about the Christmas Crochet Stocking Pattern
Yes! Although I’d describe this as an intermediate crochet pattern because it uses overlay mosaic crochet, don’t let that put you off. Overlay mosaic crochet is much easier than it looks because you only work with one colour at a time. If you’re comfortable with basic crochet stitches and would like to learn a new technique, this stocking is a great project. I also have an overlay mosaic crochet tutorial to guide you through the stitches before you begin.
Absolutely! That’s exactly what I designed these stockings for. With five different overlay mosaic crochet designs to choose from, you can make each stocking unique while keeping a coordinated festive look. I love the idea of giving every family member their own design in the same colour palette—it creates a beautiful handmade collection you’ll look forward to hanging up every Christmas.
Definitely! One of the best things about overlay mosaic crochet is how different the finished design can look simply by changing the colours. Traditional reds, greens and creams create a classic festive feel, while modern neutrals or bold contemporary shades can give your stockings a completely different look. Just make sure your yarn colours have plenty of contrast so the mosaic pattern really stands out.
Yes. The free pattern here on the blog includes everything you need to make your stocking, while the printable PDF offers an ad-free, easy-to-print version that you can download and keep forever. It also includes the stitch charts and detailed layout, making it ideal if you prefer crocheting from a printed pattern or using a tablet while you work.
If it’s your first time trying overlay mosaic crochet, I’d simply choose the design that catches your eye! They all use the same construction and techniques, so the experience of crocheting each one is very similar. If you’re planning to make several stockings, you could start with your favourite design and then create a coordinated set by using a different motif for each member of the family.
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If you’ve enjoyed making this crochet Christmas stocking pattern, then why not try a few more? Here’s a few other of my designs you might like:
- Easy mosaic crochet bauble – continue your love of mosaic crochet with this cute bauble
- Easy crochet stocking pattern – using the granny stitch.
- Christmas crochet gnome pattern – an adorable decoration to make
