Summer Cardigan Crochet Pattern: Hyacinth Cardi

In this post you’ll find everything you need to know how to make this lace crochet cardigan pattern, including materials, stitches, a detailed video tutorial and free written pattern for blog subscribers.

Whether you choose sleeved or sleeveless, this free lightweight crochet cardigan pattern is sure to become a summer wardrobe staple.

If you love this crochet lace stitch pattern, then you definitely need to check out the Penelope crochet maxi dress and the Francesca crochet skirt.

Or take a look at the Eloise summer headband and the Violet lace crochet top. They all use the lace wedge stitch and are super summer crochet patterns to make!

It’s a category 1, fingering weight yarn which is what makes this cardigan so light and breezy. Check our handy yarn weight chart and guide to find out more about yarn weights and categories.

I used Peony for my long sleeved cardigan and Ivory for my sleeveless crochet cardigan pattern.

Making a crochet gauge swatch is important when crocheting projects, and especially crochet garments to ensure that it ends up the desired size.

How much yarn do I need to crochet the free lightweight crochet cardigan pattern?

The following yarn amounts are approximate. Any changes and customisations will adjust the amount of yarn required so make sure to order plenty.

Estimated amounts are for the longer version with sleeves added.

You will require approximately 1510 (1675, 1875, 2045, 2245) (2415, 2815) metres, 1650 (1835, 2050, 2235, 2455) (2640, 3080) yards of yarn to crochet the bag.

This is 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) (13, 15) balls of the recommended yarn.

Don’t forget to join HanJan Crochet to receive regular discount codes (and more free patterns!) and Pin this easy crochet beach cover up pattern to your crochet Pinterest board!

Glossary and Abbreviations

beg – beginning

blo – back loop only

ch(s) – chain(s)

ch-sp(s) – chain space(s)

rep – repeat

RS – right side

sp – space

ss/sl st – slip stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

WS – wrong side

Yoh – yarn over hook

Stitches

The pattern is written in standard US terms and uses the following crochet stitches:

sc – single crochet (UK dc – double crochet)

dc – double crochet (UK tr – treble crochet)

hdc – half double crochet (UK htr – half treble crochet)

dtr – double treble crochet (UK ttr – triple treble crochet)

Special Stitches

LWS – Lace Wedge Stitch

A set of 2 rows including a FLWS (forward lace wedge stitch) and RLWS (return lace wedge stitch).

FLWS – Forward Lace Wedge Stitch

Ch6, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch1, skip next ch, dc in next ch, ch1, skip next ch, dtr in next ch.

RLWS – Return Lace Wedge Stitch

Sc in 2nd ch of FLWS, ch1, skip next ch, dc in next ch of FLWS, ch1, skip next ch, dtr in next ch of FLWS.

If like me you fall in love with the stitch then make sure to whip up a cute summer crochet headband to match too! 

Dtr2tog – Double Treble Two Together

Yoh 3 times, insert hook into next stitch. Yoh and pull through stitch, (yoh and pull through two loops on the hook) three times [2 loops left on hook]. Yoh 3 times, insert hook into next stitch. Yoh and pull through stitch, (yoh and pull through two loops on the hook) three times [3 loops left on hook]. Yoh and pull through all loops on the hook.

Foundation half double crochet (Fhdc) (used in belt)

Step 1: Ch 2, yarn over, insert hook into second ch from hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 2: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the first “chain” in your foundation row. [still 3 loops on hook]

Step 3: Yarn over and pull through all three loops to complete the first Fhdc.

Step 4: Next stitch and subsequent stitches: Yarn over, insert hook into “chain” created in Step 2, yarn over and pull up a loop. [3 loops on hook]

Step 5: Yarn over and pull up another loop i.e. ch1. This creates the next “chain” in your foundation row. [still 3 loops on hook]

Step 6: Yarn over and pull through all three loops to complete the next Fhdc.

Repeat Steps 4, 5 and 6 as required.

Making Your Summer Cardigan Crochet Pattern Perfect For You

The top is designed to have 4-9″ of ease so that it sits comfortably on your body but you can change it to be looser or closer fitting if you’d like to. The simple shaping means that you can just select a larger or smaller size to make to change the overall look and fit.

Length: Centre Back Panel: Continue to work as many or as few repeats of the Lace Wedge Stitch as you would like to for the length of your Cardigan. If you alter this then you will need to calculate the length of chain to extend for the Front by. Details of this are given within the written pattern.

Sleeveless: You can choose not to add Sleeves for a Sleeveless version. Simply follow the instructions up to the Sleeves and than rather than adding, seam the sides to leave an armhole opening that you are happy with.

Sleeve Armhole Depth: You can work as many or few stitches for the Sleeves as you like as they are joined once the Body is complete. The best option is to adjust by working the instructions for either the size below or above the Body. Make sure to refer to the schematic for armhole depth before deciding.

Collar Depth: Work as many or as few rows of the Collar as you like to change the depth.

Sleeve Length: You can work as many or as few repeats of the Set Sleeve Pattern to change the length of both Sleeves.

Belt Length and Width: Work as many stitches and rows of the Belt as you like to create the style you want.

Lots of these options are discussed in the video tutorial and throughout the written pattern.

Before beginning it’s best to make a plan of any adaptations you’d like to make.

• A ch1 at the beg does not count as a st.
• A ch5 at the beg does count as a st.
• The pattern is worked in turned rows.
• Read through the entire pattern before beginning.
• Before you start, go through the pattern and highlight/mark the stitch and Row counts that correspond to the size you are making (this will make your life much easier!).
• Make sure that you are familiar with all of the stitches in the abbreviations list before you begin.
• Instructions are given for the smallest size, with larger sizes in brackets ( ). E.g. XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL/3XL, 4XL/5XL).
• If an instruction does not apply to a particular size then a – is used instead of a number. E.g. – (-, 4, 4, 5) (5, 6) means that the XS and S sizes do not apply to this instruction.
• Stitch counts are given in [ ] at the end of each Row. If no stitch count is given, then the count is the same as the previous Row.
• Make sure to check your gauge before beginning using the Gauge Swatch instructions to ensure the garment meets the desired measurements.

Free Summer Cardigan Crochet Pattern

There are a few options for you to access and enjoy this crochet pattern:

Copyright Notice

The Hyacinth Cardigan Crochet Pattern and its contents are fully owned and copyrighted by HanJan Crochet Ltd., and all rights are reserved.

This pattern is protected by copyright and other intellectual property laws and may not be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the author (Hannah Cross of HanJan Crochet Ltd). 

Unauthorised distribution or reproduction of this pattern or elements of the instructions is strictly prohibited. The free to view crochet pattern is intended for personal viewing only. By accessing this pattern, you acknowledge and agree to comply with these copyright terms and conditions.

Pattern Support

I am delighted to invite you to join the HanJan Crochet Community Facebook Group where we host all pattern support queries and love to see your progress, yarn choices and finished projects! 

More Lace Wedge Patterns You’ll Love!

Crochet Pattern Free for Blog Subscribers to View

US Terminology

First Side Panel

Now that you have your First Side extension chain complete, we can work back along that chain for the Front, then work into the side of the Centre Back Panel for the Back. We then continue to work the entire length to create the First Side.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, *FLWS, skip next 5chs (or side of next LWS when working into side of Centre Back Panel) , sc in next ch or st; rep from * to end, turn. [Shorter Version: 50 FLWS, Longer Version: 58 FLWS]

Row 2: ch5 (counts as dtr), *sc in sc of FLWS, work a RLWS along the 5chs of FLWS from previous row; rep from * to last FLWS, sc in sc of last FLWS, sc in 2nd ch of last FLWS, ch1, skip next ch of last FLWS, dc in next ch of last FLWS, ch1, skip next ch of last FLWS, dtr2tog over last ch of FLWS and last st of row, turn. Reminder – a LWS = 2 rows.

Row 3: ch1, sc in 1st st, *FLWS, skip next 5sts, sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the Set Pattern for the Side Panel.

Sizing is now written as follows: XS(S, M, L, XL) (2XL/3XL, 4XL/5XL)

Rows 5-10 (12, 14, 16, 18) (20, 24): Repeat the Set Pattern for the Side Panel. Break yarn at the end of the last row.

If you are creating a Sleeveless version, continue to Second Side Panel.

If you are adding Sleeves, continue to First Sleeve, or add the Second Side Panel next if your prefer then add both Sleeves after.

Place Markers For Sleeves

SHORTER VERSION ONLY

With the FLWS facing, place a stitch marker in the beginning of the 19th (19th, 18th, 17th, 17th) (16th, 15th) LWS from the end of the First Side Panel.

Counting your first stitch maker as 1, place another stitch marker in the end of the 14th (14th, 16th, 18th, 18th) (20th, 22nd) LWS along.

Try on at this point and adjust your Sleeves if desired/required. You need to have them spaced with an even number of LWS at the Front and Back.

Continue to Sleeve.

LONGER VERSION ONLY

With the RS facing, place a stitch marker in the beginning of the 23rd (23rd, 22nd, 21st, 21st) (20th, 19th) LWS from the end of the First Side Panel.

Counting your first stitch maker as 1, place another stitch marker in the end of the 14th (14th, 16th, 18th, 18th) (20th, 22nd) LWS along.

Try on at this point and adjust your Sleeves if desired/required. You need to have them spaced with an even number of LWS at the Front and Back.

Continue to Sleeve.

OTHER LENGTHS

If you have altered the length you will need to calculate where to position your Sleeve.

You can do this by taking away the number of LWS for your Sleeve from the total number of LWS along the First Side Panel. Divide this number by 2 and this is how many LWS you need to leave unworked at the sides.

Sleeve

Now that you have your stitch markers in place, you can work the Sleeve. Join the yarn to the stitch with the first stitch marker in and continue.

Row 1: ch1, sc in same st, *FLWS, skip next 5sts, sc in next ch; rep from * to next stitch marker, turn. [14 (14, 16, 18, 18) (20, 22) LWS]

Row 2: ch5 (counts as dtr), *sc in sc of FLWS, work a RLWS along the 5chs of FLWS from previous row; rep from * to last FLWS, sc in sc of last FLWS, sc in 2nd ch of last FLWS, ch1, skip next ch of last FLWS, dc in next ch of last FLWS, ch1, skip next ch of last FLWS, dtr2tog over last ch of FLWS and last st of row, turn. Reminder – a LWS = 2 rows.

Row 3: ch1, sc in 1st st, *FLWS, skip next 5sts, sc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn.

Row 4: Rep Row 2.

Rows 3 and 4 create the Set Pattern for the Sleeve.

You can continue to work the Set Pattern for the Sleeve as many times as you like to create a Sleeve of any length. The following are suggestions for each size:

Rows 5-30 for all sizes: Repeat the Set Pattern for the Sleeve. This will give you a 17″ Sleeve but you can work to any length. Break yarn at the end of the last Row.

Extend For Second Side Panel

We now need to join the yarn to the other side of the Centre Back Panel to work the Second Side Panel.

Second Side Panel

Repeat as for First Side Panel.

Second Sleeve

Repeat as for First Sleeve.

Side And Underarm Seams

Before seaming, block to measurements.

If you have added Sleeves, seam the side from the bottom upwards to the underarm, then continue to seam the Sleeve to the cuff. You can use a slip stitch seam or sew as you prefer.

Once complete, repeat on the other side.

If you haven’t added sleeves then you can seam as much or as little of the sides as you like to create an arm hole of any size.

For standardised sizing I would recommend leaving 14 (14, 16, 18, 18) (20, 22) LWS un seamed for the armhole.

Collar

The Collar is now added along both the edges of the Front and across the top of the Centre Back Panel. It is done in turned rows so that you can make it as deep as you would like.

With RS facing, join yarn to bottom stitch at the Front opening.

Row 1: ch1, hdc in each st or ch of the First Front Side, the top of the Centre Back Panel and the Second Front Side, turn.

Row 2: ch1, hdc in blo of each st, turn.

Rows 3-7: Rep Row 2.

Work as many rows as you would like here to change the depth of you Collar. Break yarn.

Belt

You can create a Belt to any length and width you like, here are some suggestions for each size:

Row 1: Foundation hdc 300, (325, 350, 375, 400) (425, 475) sts, turn.

Rows 2-6: ch1, hdc in blo of each, turn.

You can work as many or as few rows as you like to change the width of your Belt.

When complete, break your yarn and block lightly.

Belt Ties

Your Belt Ties can be added to any position at the side seams of your Cardigan that you would like them. If making for yourself then try the Cardigan on and wrap the Belt around at your natural waist. Use this as a guide to decide where to place the Belt Ties. Make sure that they are level on both sides.

Once you have decided on the position of your Belt Ties, with the RS facing, join the yarn to the start of a LWS, ch9 (or as many as you feel you need) ss into the end of the LWS. Break yarn.

Repeat this on the other side of the Cardigan.

Test the Belt through the Belt Ties to make sure you are happy with the size and position.

Weave in all ends to complete.

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More Crochet Cardigan Patterns You Might Enjoy

If you’ve enjoyed making this free crochet beach cover up pattern, then why not try a few more? I have lots of easy crochet cardigan patterns and ideas for you. Here’s a few other of my designs you might like:

• Cocoon Cardigan Crochet Pattern – a simple lace c2c creates an elegant shrug
• Granny Stitch Cardigan – traditional with a twist and perfect for summer or winter
• Knit Look Crochet Cardigan Pattern – an easy, side to side crochet cardigan pattern

Congratulations on crocheting your very own crochet beach cardigan! 🌟 Now that you’ve crafted this fun project, why stop here? Dive into my other adult crochet garment patterns, each waiting to be transformed into your next crochet masterpiece.

Don’t forget to share your creations with me on social media—I love seeing your unique twists and colourful creations! Join our community of crochet enthusiasts, where we share tips, tricks, and plenty of crafting inspiration. So, grab your hooks, explore more patterns, and let’s continue this crochet adventure together! Happy stitching! 🧶✨